Alocasia Corm Mold: Surface Growth, Inspection & Next Steps

White fuzz on an Alocasia corm can look dramatic. It can show up on a dry outer scale, along the surface of Sphagnum, across damp organic debris or around a scar that stayed wet too long. The immediate temptation is to diagnose “mold,” assume the corm is rotting, and start scraping or cutting. That reaction can do more harm than the surface growth itself.

Visible fungal-looking growth is an observation, not a complete diagnosis. Surface fungi can grow on dead organic material without destroying the living corm underneath. At the same time, some plant pathogens can also produce visible fungal growth, and a corm can be internally rotting with almost no fuzz on the outside. The safest approach is to inspect the tissue condition, moisture history, smell, location and progression before deciding what the growth means.

Quick Answer

Is mold on an Alocasia corm always bad?

No. Fuzzy surface growth can develop on dead outer scales, organic media or debris while the corm itself remains firm. But visible fuzz also does not prove the growth is harmless, identify the organism, or rule out rot. Check the corm underneath. Firm, stable tissue with no foul odor is very different from soft, wet, collapsing or spreading damage. Clean only loose surface material, correct overly wet conditions, isolate the corm if uncertain, and route any soft or deteriorating tissue to the dedicated rot guide.

Surface mold and corm rot are not the same diagnosis

This is the most important distinction in the entire guide.

Clemson Cooperative Extension specifically notes that white or yellow mold-like growth from saprophytic soil fungi can appear on houseplant potting media. Saprophytic fungi feed on dead organic material rather than attacking healthy living tissue. That means visible fungal growth can be present in a propagation container without automatically proving the plant itself is diseased.

Root and crown rot are different. University of Maryland Extension describes root-rot symptoms such as brown-to-black roots, soft or mushy tissue, wilting and collapse. Clemson likewise describes infected roots as brown to black and sometimes soft.

For an Alocasia corm, use the same practical separation:

• surface growth: fuzzy, webby, powdery or film-like material sitting on the outside;
• tissue rot: the storage tissue itself loses structure, softens, turns water-soaked, collapses or smells foul.

A corm can have both at the same time. One does not automatically prove or exclude the other.

What does surface mold look like?

Growers use the word “mold” for several different appearances. A surface colony may look:

• white and cottony;
• fine and web-like;
• powdery;
• grayish;
• greenish;
• cream or yellowish;
• like a thin film over damp organic material.

Color is not enough to identify the organism. Many unrelated fungi can produce similar-looking growth, and lighting can shift apparent color dramatically. A photo of a green, gray or black patch does not tell you the species or whether it is pathogenic.

Do not label a growth “black mold,” “Botrytis,” “Fusarium,” “Pythium” or another named organism from appearance alone unless a qualified diagnosis supports it.

What does harmful rot look like?

The corm itself becomes the focus.

More concerning signs include:

• soft or mushy tissue;
• a wet translucent area;
• slimy tissue;
• a hollow or collapsing section;
• a foul, sour or fermented smell;
• damage that expands between inspections;
• roots that turn dark, soft and slough away;
• a growth point that becomes soft or collapses.

University of Maryland describes Pythium and Phytophthora root rots as producing brown-to-black, soft or mushy roots. Mississippi State Extension describes damping-off and related diseases as causing discoloration, rot and collapse of young tissues, sometimes with white fluffy growth under high humidity. Those sources reinforce the same diagnostic principle: fungal-looking growth becomes much more important when the plant tissue itself is deteriorating.

If the corm is soft, move directly to the corm rot rescue guide.

Why mold appears on Alocasia corms

Fungal spores are common in the environment. What determines whether you see visible growth is often the local microclimate.

Surface growth becomes more likely when several conditions overlap:

• persistent moisture;
• dead organic material;
• poor airflow;
• low light at the surface;
• high humidity;
• old or reused media;
• decaying roots or leaf debris;
• a wounded outer scale;
• a sealed propagation container that stays wet.

Clemson notes that overwatering reduces oxygen around roots and favors root diseases. Mississippi State emphasizes that wet conditions, poor drainage and limited air circulation can favor damping-off pathogens. The visible mold may not be the primary problem, but it can be a useful signal that the propagation environment is staying wetter or more stagnant than intended.

Why a humidity box can grow surface mold

Humidity boxes work because they reduce moisture loss. That same enclosed environment also reduces evaporation from media and corm surfaces.

If the box contains:

• dripping Sphagnum;
• standing water;
• dead leaf fragments;
• old corm skins;
• condensation that never clears;
• little air exchange;

you have created a surface environment where fungal growth can become visible quickly.

This does not mean humidity boxes are bad. It means humidity should be paired with moisture control and sanitation.

Mold on the corm versus mold on the media

Location gives you useful context.

Mold on Sphagnum or potting media

Fuzzy growth across the medium often reflects moisture plus organic material. Check whether the corm remains firm and whether the media is staying too wet.

Mold on a dry outer scale

Dead outer material can support fungal growth while the living corm underneath remains intact.

If the scale is already loose, you can gently remove the loose material and inspect the firm tissue below. Do not strip attached living tissue just to chase every visible thread.

Mold directly on firm exposed corm tissue

This deserves closer monitoring. The tissue may still be healthy, but the combination of visible growth and direct contact with living tissue is a reason to correct moisture and inspect more carefully.

Mold over a soft spot

That is no longer a surface-only problem. The softness matters more than the fuzz.

Mold or a harmless lookalike?

Not everything white in a propagation cup is fungal growth.

Fuzzy or webby growth

Soft threads, cottony growth or a spreading film are more consistent with fungal growth.

Hard white or gray crust

Clemson specifically warns not to confuse white-to-gray crusty salt deposits with mold-like fungal growth. Salt deposits are usually hard, chalky or gritty rather than fuzzy.

Perlite

Perlite appears as white mineral chunks distributed through the medium. It does not spread, grow threads or change shape between inspections.

Root hairs

Very fine root hairs can look fuzzy around new roots. If the fuzz is aligned with healthy pale root tissue and does not spread across dead material, look carefully before wiping it away.

Callus or dry wound tissue

A pale, dry healed surface can appear dusty or rough without being mold.

Mold versus root hairs: how to tell

New roots deserve special caution because they can be damaged easily.

Root hairs usually:

• stay closely associated with the root;
• form a fine halo along healthy root tissue;
• do not jump onto nearby plastic walls as a colony;
• do not form isolated cottony clumps on old corm scales.

Fungal mycelium can bridge between organic particles, spread over dead tissue and create patches that are not limited to a living root surface.

If uncertain, do not scrub the root. Photograph it and monitor.

Does white mold mean the corm is dying?

No.

A firm corm can carry white surface growth and continue developing roots or a shoot.

What matters is whether the storage tissue remains structurally sound.

Check:

• firmness;
• growth-point condition;
• root condition;
• odor;
• whether the growth returns after environmental correction;
• whether any soft spot expands.

The mold is one data point.

Does green mold mean the corm is worse?

Not necessarily.

Color alone does not reliably tell you how deeply the growth has affected plant tissue. Green sporulation can look more alarming than white mycelium, but the practical decision still depends on the corm underneath.

Do not make a treatment decision solely from color.

Does black mold mean the corm is rotten?

Do not use “black mold” as a visual diagnosis.

Dark fungal-looking growth, dark scars, decomposing organic debris and true blackened rot can all look similar in photos.

Check the tissue:

• firm and dry = observe and clean conservatively;
• soft and wet = rot pathway;
• foul odor = investigate immediately;
• expanding collapse = active deterioration.

Can a corm mold without being overwatered?

Yes.

Visible growth can be influenced by:

• high ambient humidity;
• condensation;
• dead outer material;
• contaminated media;
• poor air movement;
• a recently wounded surface;
• water left on one area even if the rest of the medium is not saturated.

Overwatering is common, but it is not the only possible contributor.

Can mold appear in Perlite?

Pure mineral Perlite provides little organic food by itself, but a Perlite setup can still develop fungal growth if it contains organic debris, old root tissue, a decomposing corm scale or contaminated water.

If mold appears:

• remove loose organic debris;
• check the corm for softness;
• reduce excessive standing water;
• refresh badly contaminated material if needed;
• keep the growth point out of the wettest zone.

Use the Perlite guide for the full moisture setup.

Can mold appear in Sphagnum Moss?

Yes.

Sphagnum is organic and can stay damp for long periods. Old Sphagnum, decomposing root tissue and compressed wet fibers can all support visible fungal growth.

Use fresh material when possible and squeeze excess water out before surrounding a corm.

The Sphagnum guide explains the correct moisture test.

Can mold appear with the Puddle Method?

Yes, especially on tissue that sits above the waterline but remains continuously humid and splashed.

The key is not to turn a shallow-water method into full corm submersion.

Refresh stagnant water, remove decomposing debris and keep the growth point above the waterline.

What should you do the first time you see mold?

Do not immediately cut.

Use a structured inspection.

Step 1: photograph it before cleaning

Take a clear photo of the affected area and the entire corm.

This gives you a baseline for comparison and protects you from relying on memory later.

Step 2: isolate the corm if you are uncertain

If it shares a propagation box or water reservoir with other valuable corms, move it to its own clean container while you evaluate it.

Isolation is a precaution, not proof that the growth is contagious.

Step 3: check firmness gently

Do not repeatedly squeeze the corm.

Use light pressure once to determine whether the body is firm or losing structure.

Step 4: smell the container

An earthy or mildly musty smell can occur around organic media. A strong sour, fermented or rotten odor is more concerning, especially with soft tissue.

Step 5: remove only loose surface material

If mold is sitting on a dry outer scale that is already detached, remove the loose scale gently.

Do not scrape healthy attached tissue to chase every fungal thread.

Use the Should You Peel an Alocasia Corm? guide for the handling boundary.

Step 6: correct the moisture problem

Ask why the surface stayed damp enough for visible growth.

Possible fixes include:

• less standing water;
• better drainage;
• fresh media;
• less compressed Sphagnum;
• removing dead debris;
• slightly more air exchange;
• warmer conditions if the setup is cold and stagnant.

Step 7: monitor progression

Compare the new photo with the original after the environment has been corrected.

If the corm stays firm and growth does not return aggressively, you may have solved a surface problem.

If soft tissue develops or expands, follow the rot guide.

Should you rinse a moldy corm?

A gentle rinse can help you inspect the surface, especially if soil or loose organic debris is hiding the tissue.

Do not soak the corm for a long period simply to remove mold.

The goal is inspection and cleanup, not prolonged hydration.

Should you scrub mold off a corm?

Aggressive scrubbing is usually unnecessary.

You can wipe or rinse loose surface material away without abrading healthy tissue.

Scrubbing near new roots or the growth point can create more damage than the surface growth caused.

Should you peel the corm to remove mold?

Not routinely.

Loose, dead outer material can come away. Firm attached tissue should stay.

If you have to dig or scrape to remove the visible growth, stop and reassess whether the corm actually needs tissue removal.

Should you cut moldy tissue away?

Only if the plant tissue itself is clearly decayed.

Surface fuzz on a firm corm does not justify carving into healthy storage tissue.

Soft, mushy tissue is different and should be handled under the rot rescue protocol.

Should you use hydrogen peroxide?

Hydrogen peroxide is frequently recommended online for mold, but concentration, exposure time and tissue sensitivity matter.

This guide does not prescribe a universal peroxide soak for Alocasia corms.

A chemical dip also does not correct saturated media, poor drainage or decomposing debris.

Should you use cinnamon?

Cinnamon is another popular internet recommendation.

This guide does not treat cinnamon as a required mold cure. The evidence-backed priorities are more basic: remove loose decaying material, correct excess moisture, use clean media and containers, improve air movement where appropriate and watch the living tissue.

Should you use fungicide?

Do not apply a fungicide simply because you see fuzz.

Different fungi and fungus-like organisms respond differently, and visual appearance alone cannot identify the organism.

Mississippi State Extension stresses that fungicides vary in efficacy among damping-off pathogens and that pathogen identification matters. Clemson also notes that disease management begins with sanitation and cultural practices.

If you use any fungicide, it must be labeled for the plant/use situation and applied exactly according to its label.

Should you throw away a moldy corm?

Not just because the surface looks fuzzy.

A firm corm with an intact growth point and superficial growth may still be completely viable.

Discard becomes more reasonable when:

• the corm is broadly soft and collapsing;
• the growth point is destroyed;
• there is no meaningful firm tissue left;
• rot continues spreading despite rescue;
• the corm creates an unacceptable risk to a larger propagation batch.

Can mold spread to other corms?

Fungal spores and contaminated organic debris can move through shared media, water, tools and handling.

That does not mean every visible saprophytic colony is a dangerous contagious disease, but isolation is sensible when the cause is uncertain.

Keep suspicious corms out of shared reservoirs until you know the tissue is stable.

Can you reuse Perlite after mold?

For valuable corm propagation, fresh material is usually the simpler reset.

Perlite is inexpensive compared with the value of a rare corm. Reusing material that contains old organic debris makes future diagnosis harder.

Can you reuse Sphagnum after mold?

If the Sphagnum has extensive fungal growth, decomposing debris or was used around a corm with suspected rot, replacing it is the cleaner choice.

Organic fibers hold debris and can be difficult to sanitize consistently in a home setup.

Can you reuse the propagation cup?

Yes, if it is thoroughly cleaned and appropriately disinfected before reuse. Follow our Alocasia propagation-cup cleaning guide for the steps to prepare a used container for another corm.

Clemson recommends cleaning and disinfecting reused pots as part of houseplant disease prevention. Mississippi State gives similar sanitation guidance for pots and transplant trays in propagation systems.

How to prevent mold in a humidity box

You do not need to eliminate humidity. You need to stop combining high humidity with constant saturation and decaying material.

Use these practices:

• start with clean containers;
• remove dead leaves and old root debris;
• use fresh propagation media;
• squeeze Sphagnum properly;
• avoid deep standing water around the corm;
• provide some air exchange;
• do not overcrowd the box;
• keep the container warm enough for active growth;
• watch condensation rather than assuming more is always better.

If you use a closed cup or dome, the Alocasia Corm Humidity Dome Ventilation Guide explains when to vent, how to open a lid without ventilation holes, and why condensation alone does not prove the roots are healthy.

How to prevent mold in Perlite

Keep the setup mineral-dominant and clean.

Remove organic debris, do not flood the corm body, keep any reservoir below the corm and refresh water if it becomes stagnant.

How to prevent mold in Sphagnum

Use the squeeze test: moss should be moist but not dripping.

Fluff the fibers instead of packing them tightly. Keep the growth point exposed and remove dead organic fragments quickly.

How to prevent mold after peeling or cutting

The best prevention is to avoid unnecessary wounds.

If a legitimate rot rescue requires cutting, use a clean tool, allow the fresh surface to become dry rather than wet, then restart in clean, lightly damp, aerated media.

Do not place a freshly cut corm into a saturated closed container.

How to prevent mold after shipping

Do not put a damp shipped corm directly into an overly wet propagation setup without inspection.

On arrival:

1. photograph it;
2. check firmness;
3. remove loose packing debris;
4. identify the growth point;
5. select clean media;
6. avoid burying the entire corm.

Mold or rot: the 60-second check

Why surface mold keeps coming back

If you remove visible growth but change nothing else, it can return because the original conditions remain.

Recurring mold suggests you should check:

• whether media stays wet too long;
• whether the container is too large;
• whether drainage is blocked;
• whether humidity is extreme with no air exchange;
• whether old organic debris remains;
• whether the corm has an unseen soft area;
• whether water is pooling around one side of the corm.

Do not turn repeated mold into repeated chemical treatment without correcting the system.

What if mold appears but the corm is still sprouting?

Active root or shoot growth is encouraging, but it does not mean the environment should be ignored.

Clean only loose surface growth, protect new roots, adjust moisture and let the corm continue.

Do not repeatedly remove a sprouting corm from media unless tissue health gives you a reason.

What if the first leaf has already opened?

Once the plant has a functioning leaf and stronger roots, shift your attention toward the normal growing environment.

Use the pot-up guide when the root system is ready.

Can mold stop a corm from sprouting?

Surface growth by itself may not stop a viable corm.

The underlying conditions—cold, saturation, oxygen limitation, tissue damage or active rot—can slow or stop development.

If the corm remains firm but inactive, use the Not Sprouting Guide.

Can mold grow on a dead corm?

Yes.

Dead plant tissue is organic material, and decomposer fungi can colonize it readily.

If a corm is completely collapsed, hollow or decomposing, mold may simply be part of the breakdown process rather than the original cause of death.

Can mold grow on a healthy corm?

Surface fungi can colonize loose dead scales, scars or debris attached to an otherwise healthy corm.

That is why you must check the living body underneath rather than judging from the outer fuzz alone.

Should mold make you open the corm?

No.

Do not cut open a firm corm simply to “check inside.”

Cutting creates a wound and can destroy a perfectly viable propagule.

Use external evidence first: firmness, smell, root condition, bud condition and progression.

Alocasia corm mold FAQ

Is white mold on an Alocasia corm dangerous?

Not automatically. White fuzzy growth can be superficial. Check whether the corm underneath remains firm and stable.

What causes mold on Alocasia corms?

Persistent moisture, organic debris, high humidity, poor air movement, old media and wounds can all contribute to visible fungal growth.

How do I remove mold from an Alocasia corm?

Photograph it, check firmness, gently rinse or wipe loose surface material, remove only detached dead debris, correct excess moisture and monitor.

Should I peel a moldy corm?

Only loose dead material should come away. Do not strip firm attached tissue just to remove visible fuzz.

Should I cut a moldy corm?

Not unless the plant tissue itself is soft and clearly decayed. Surface growth alone is not a reason to cut.

Can mold and rot happen together?

Yes. A corm can have surface fungal growth while also developing internal rot, especially in persistently wet conditions.

Does green mold mean the corm is dead?

No. Color alone cannot determine viability or identify the organism. Check tissue condition.

Does black mold mean rot?

Not necessarily. Dark fungal growth, scars and decayed tissue can look similar. Softness, wet collapse, odor and progression are more meaningful.

Can mold grow in Perlite?

Yes, especially where organic debris or damaged plant tissue is present. Perlite itself is mineral, but the propagation system is not sterile.

Can mold grow in Sphagnum?

Yes. Sphagnum is organic and can support fungal growth when it stays very wet or contains decomposing material.

Should I use peroxide?

This guide does not recommend a universal peroxide soak. Correct the environment first and avoid chemical treatment without a clear reason.

Should I use cinnamon?

Cinnamon is not required for the evidence-based cleanup steps in this guide.

Should I use fungicide?

Only if a product is labeled for the plant/use situation and there is a justified diagnosis. Visible fuzz alone does not identify a pathogen.

Can I keep a moldy corm with other corms?

Isolate it while uncertain, especially if corms share water or media. Return it only after tissue remains stable and the environment is corrected.

Can I reuse the media?

Fresh propagation media is the cleaner choice when growth is extensive or rot is suspected.

What is the fastest way to tell mold from rot?

Check the corm itself. Firm and stable points toward a surface issue; soft, wet, collapsing or foul-smelling tissue points toward rot.

What if the corm is moldy but still firm?

Clean conservatively, reset moisture and airflow, then monitor. Do not cut a firm corm merely because the surface looks fuzzy.

What if the corm is moldy and soft?

Follow the rot diagnosis and rescue guide.

When should you leave surface mold alone?

Not every fuzzy patch requires a dramatic intervention.

If the corm is:

• firm from top to bottom;
• free of foul odor;
• actively rooting or sprouting;
• showing no expanding soft lesion;
• and the visible growth is limited to loose outer debris or the surface of the medium,

then the safest response may be a conservative cleanup plus an environmental adjustment rather than cutting, peeling or chemically treating the corm.

This is especially true when the visible growth disappears after you remove dead debris, reduce saturation and improve air exchange. A plant can be set back by unnecessary handling, so “doing less” is sometimes the more advanced decision.

When should recurring mold make you more suspicious?

Recurrence is useful information.

If the same patch comes back quickly in the exact same location after cleanup, ask whether there is hidden damaged tissue underneath. A dry outer scale may repeatedly support fungal growth because it remains damp. A scar may be collecting moisture. A damaged root may be decomposing below the surface.

That still does not prove the corm is rotting. It means the repeated pattern deserves a closer inspection.

Escalate your concern when recurrence is paired with:

• new softness;
• loss of firmness around the growth point;
• darkening that expands into living tissue;
• root collapse;
• a sour smell;
• continued decline after the media is corrected.

At that point, use the rot guide rather than continuing to wipe the surface and hope the problem stays cosmetic.

What if only one corm in a propagation box molds?

One affected corm does not automatically mean the entire box is contaminated or failing.

Individual corms can differ in harvest wounds, outer-scale debris, shipping stress, maturity and contact with wet media. One corm may have a small dead scale that supports fungal growth while its neighbors remain clean.

Remove that corm to a separate container while you inspect it. Then check the shared environment for obvious issues such as standing water, saturated moss, decaying debris or condensation that never clears.

If the rest of the corms are firm and actively growing, do not dismantle the whole propagation box solely because one specimen developed a fuzzy patch.

What if mold appears on several corms at once?

A repeated pattern across multiple containers points more strongly toward a shared environmental issue.

Check:

• the batch of media;
• water depth;
• how wet the Sphagnum was prepared;
• whether the lids are fully sealed;
• whether dead plant debris is present;
• whether the room became cooler;
• whether light levels dropped;
• whether containers are packed too closely for air movement.

Correct the system before treating each corm as an isolated disease case.

Does mold mean you need more airflow?

Sometimes, but airflow is not a universal cure.

More air exchange can help surfaces dry and reduce persistent condensation. However, blasting tiny unrooted corms with a fan can dehydrate them, especially in very dry indoor air.

The goal is balance: enough exchange that the container is not stagnant, but enough humidity that new roots and shoots do not desiccate.

If the media itself is saturated, adding a fan while leaving the water level unchanged does not solve the root-zone problem.

Does light affect surface mold?

Light affects the plant's growth rate and water use, and a brighter propagation area can dry differently from a dim one.

Do not put a closed propagation box in direct sun to “kill mold.” Clear containers can heat rapidly, damaging corms and roots.

Use bright indirect light and correct moisture instead of trying to sterilize the setup with heat or intense sunlight.

When is laboratory diagnosis worth considering?

Most home growers do not need a laboratory to manage a small surface colony on one firm corm.

A professional diagnosis becomes more useful when:

• valuable corms repeatedly collapse despite good cultural conditions;
• the same problem spreads through a large batch;
• you are considering a pesticide or fungicide that depends on pathogen identification;
• symptoms are unusual or severe;
• you need to distinguish infectious disease from a cultural problem.

Mississippi State Extension specifically notes that different damping-off pathogens respond differently to fungicides and recommends pathogen identification when chemical management is being considered. That is the reason this guide does not assign organism names from color or photographs.

How to document mold on an expensive collector corm

For a high-value corm, documentation is part of good plant care.

Record:

• arrival date;
• seller and order number;
• photos of all sides before cleaning;
• firmness at arrival;
• propagation method;
• water level or media moisture;
• date surface growth first appeared;
• what changed after cleanup;
• whether roots or the growth point continued developing.

If the corm arrived with visible growth and the seller has an arrival policy, photograph it before modifying the surface. A clear timeline is more useful than an after-the-fact description.

What does successful recovery from surface mold look like?

You are not waiting for the corm to become perfectly spotless. You are looking for stability and growth.

Good signs include:

• the corm stays firm;
• the cleaned area remains structurally sound;
• fuzzy growth does not rapidly return;
• new roots stay pale and firm;
• the growth point enlarges;
• the first leaf continues opening;
• there is no foul odor.

Once those signs are present, stop over-inspecting. Let the corm grow.

Research notes and sources

This guide deliberately avoids identifying fungal species from photographs. Clemson Cooperative Extension distinguishes saprophytic mold-like soil fungi from mineral salt crusts and notes that overwatering reduces oxygen and favors root disease. University of Maryland describes healthy roots as firm and root-rot tissue as dark and soft or mushy. Mississippi State explains that several fungi and water molds can cause damping-off and that disease risk is strongly influenced by moisture, drainage, air circulation and sanitation. Penn State, Wisconsin and UC IPM similarly emphasize clean media, sanitation, drainage and proper moisture rather than relying on visual guesses or universal chemical treatments.

• Clemson Cooperative Extension — Houseplant Diseases & Disorders
• University of Maryland Extension — Diagnose Indoor Plant Problems
• University of Maryland Extension — Root Rots of Indoor Plants
• Mississippi State University Extension — Damping-Off in Vegetables
• Penn State Extension — Pest and Disease Problems of Indoor Plants
• Wisconsin Horticulture — Root Rots on Houseplants
• UC IPM — Houseplant Problems

Mold Rule

Fuzz is an observation. Tissue condition is the diagnosis.

If the corm is firm, clean conservatively and correct the environment. If it is soft, wet or collapsing, use the Corm Rot Guide. If it is firm but stalled, use the Not Sprouting Guide. For the complete propagation system, return to the Alocasia Corm Care Guide.